Wine of the Week: Braganini Reserve 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Michigan
It’s been a record hot year across the country (except for California), and if you want to cool off to top domestic sauvignon blanc, this is a brilliant, refreshingly Loire Valley interpretation of the classic white Bordeaux grape.
The Braganini Reserve was produced by St. Julian winery in Paw Paw, Michigan (SW). David Braganini is the grandson of Mariano, the founder of St. Julian. 2008 was a cool year in the East, including Michigan. This wine has the subtle, delicate bouquet of lemongrass and crushed limestone, pointing to the Loire Valley rather than Marlborough, NZ. On the palate, the wine is dry but has a rich, ripe mid-palate viscosity much like cool-climate chardonnay. Lemon curd and a hint of sage overlay this viscosity, with a clean finish. An excellent food wine, this will also reward those who can enjoy delicately dry and fresh Loire-style sauvignon blanc (alc. a mere 12%). For growers in SW Michigan, it may be time to consider plantings of this classic grape which seems to have much promise here. Note: this wine was finished with a Stelvin (screwcap) closure, ensuring its freshness which is holding well.