Because of acidic clay soils, and this grape’s need for a long growing season, it’s hard to find consistently good cabernet sauvignon in Virginia. However, in hot, dry growing seasons like 2007 and 2010, it’s worth looking around and trying Virginia’s versions of the more famous of the two cabernets.
This week it’s hats off to Al Kellert, co-owner and winemaker at Gray Ghost Vineyards in Amissville, for his fine job with the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Most 2007 reds were a little low in the acid and flabby; not this one. The tannins ripened well and are firm; this wine could last easily until ten years of age. However, it is fruit-driven and fresh. If you visit the Gray Ghost tasting room, you may see a pair of wine cellar doors that look a lot like what you’ll see at Silver Oak, the stylistic model for cabernet at Gray Ghost.
The wine is dark, and the nose is wonderfully fresh and fragrant, bursting with black currants (cassis) with leafy herbal elements with a hint of white pepper in the background. On the palate, the wine is smooth, again dominated by pure black currants, but with firm, yet ripe tannins and a smoky finish. The alcohol is 11.9% and the oak isn’t noticeable.
If you like the sound of this wine, inquire with Gray Ghost to see if they have any 2010 or 2012 versions of varietal cabernet sauvignon, and then hold onto it for most of a decade; this one is just opening up.