I was judging last week at the first blind Virginia wine tasting held by VWG Online (www.vwg-online.com) that focused on viognier and cabernet franc.
We had six viogniers and seven cabernet francs. I remarked that both the quality and diversity of the wines was impressive; the two flagship varietals of Virginia are no longer predictable or two-dimensional.
My favorite wine of the tasting was the DuCard “signature” viognier 2010. I was impressed with the fresh purity of the fruit, which had a delicate, orange blossom and tangerine character I didn’t find in the others. There was fresh bright acidity balancing a rich, clean mouth feel, which you could tell had some complexity and depth from lees contact, but nicely lacking in any oak vanillins or flavors.
I was so impressed by the stand-out character of the wine that I supposed it to be a Condrieu (since I knew one was in the tasting somewhere), the small appellation in the Northern Rhone where viognier is grown. The actual Condrieu (2006) was old and faded (as most ’06 whites would be).
I was not only pleased to see that the wine was from Virginia, but from a fairly new winery, DuCard, in Madison County near Old Rag Mountain. I’m glad proprietor Scott Eliff put the processing details on the back label: 100% estate fruit (grown very close to the Blue Ridge Mountains) that is whole-cluster pressed to avoid harsh bitter compounds, barrel fermented and aged in neutral oak “to highlight floral character.”
What surprised me most about the wine was its high alcohol, a whopping 14.9%. I seldom like drinking any white table wine with that kind of octane, but the point is that this wine didn’t show it either on the nose or the palate. I’m actually more impressed with the wine by the fact that it carries its alcohol without a high proof hound like me noticing it as a problem; in other words the wine is in balance.
Be warned though; you can easily drain a bottle of this elegant wine with a friend at a picnic, but getting on your feet again and passing a DWI test would be another matter, so approach carefully!