12 Ridges Vineyard near Montebello, at 3,300 ft. elevation

12 Ridges Vineyard, at milepost 25 on the Blue Ridge Parkway near Montebello, is the highest elevation vineyard in Virginia, where founder Craig Colberg has planted classic, cool climate winegrapes like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris, and is making wines with the brilliant, fresh fruit of high elevation viticulture.

The high elevation and 360-degree mountain views are good for ideal winegrape chemistry, but also good for people who want to escape the heat and humidity of the Piedmont in summertime; the temperature is reliably 10 F degrees cooler than in Charlottesville.

12 Ridges founder Craig Colberg at the tasting room with a bottle of their newly-released 2021 Brut (methode traditionelle)

While the vineyard initially only had its 2021 Riesling bottled and ready for tasting room sales, and sold other high-elevation wines from around the world, they now have their full product line available while it lasts, all from estate fruit. This includes:

***Brut 2021 $75

An original, intriguing blend of 55% Pinot Gris and 45% Chardonnay. The nose is subtle, but the palate is broad and a bit round, with the influence of the Pinot Gris and very slight oxidation from eight months fermentation in neutral oak with ambient yeast; only partial malolactic fermentation means the wine still retains impressive acidity from the Chardonnay on the finish. Two years on the lees gives depth and complexity. Still young, but drinking well, will gain in complexity with age.

*Chardonnay 2022 $59

This is a different style than the vibrant, nervy 2021 vintage. Whole cluster pressed and fermented in neutral oak, there is perhaps more influence from malolactic fermentation than in the 2021 vintage, and a touch of oak flavor. This is a forward, easy-to-drink Chardonnay and also versatile.

Riesling 2022 $49 (not tasted).

Described as “dry and stunning,” based on my tasting of the 2021 vintage, I’d have to agree. Low yields and high altitude give high acidity in the wine, appropriate for this fruity but bracing grape. Stylistically, it resembles the best Rieslings from NW Michigan or the Finger Lakes of NY.

***Pinot Noir 2022 $59

The 2022 vintage gave a different style in this elegant, impressive wine. While the 2021 was deep and rich, moderately tannic, this is lighter as with a Cotes de Beaune style, but “light” doesn’t mean “wimpy.” The hue is a vivid violet/red. The nose is subtle but with fresh, clean nuances. On the palate, you get solid, plump ripe red cherries, then a broad texture finishing with fresh, bright acidity. This could be a ringer for southern Burgundy, but for it being very clean.

Pinot Gris 2022 $49

(not tasted): This rose-colored wine is an “orange” style wine, fermented as if it were a red wine, warm, and on the skins. This makes a different kind of flavor, texture and style than the usual white wine process of fermenting only the juice, in a cool fermentation.

**Taille One On 2023 $35

This fun wine is a blend of the press wine from the varietal versions, 65% Riesling, 13% Pinot Gris, 14% Chardonnay, 8% Pinot Noir, and a refreshingly low alcohol level of 10.8%. It’s round and smooth on the palate, slightly juicy, fresh and easy to quaff, and the alcohol level seems even lower than it tastes.

Montebello Mountain Water $8, 12 oz.

Keeping with the new trend of lower alcohol beverages, this is a canned slightly sparkling water from the mountain, with 4% alcohol from the addition of estate Riesling. Clean and refreshing, there’s just enough Riesling for flavor and a hint of wine, but at 4%, it’s both safe and refreshing; an original, fun value.

Ratings key: * = good, ** = very good, *** = classic style and quality, **** = exceptional, outstanding, + = given rating plus, > = will increase in quality with time.