**+ Stinson Vineyards Mourvedre 2023: Winemaker Rachel Stinson used a lot of whole cluster fruit (stem inclusion) in this fermentation, resulting in a lighter, fruitier varietal style, that still has a smokiness to it. Palate: fine acidity, lightly fruity, a late summer red wine great for food pairing, and a fresh, original style.
**+ Pollak Vineyards Pinot Gris 2022 (VA): Pinot Gris is one of my favorite grape varieties for Thanksgiving, but it must be made in the Alsatian style, with ripe fruit and rich texture on the mid-palate, and fresh acidity on the finish. Anything labeled “Pinot Grigio” is the same grape but made in the Italian style, which is much lighter in weight and no real fruit character. This is a fine example of the style, with fresh fruity nectarine flavors, full texture on the mid-palate, and zesty acidity on the finish.
**+Red Tail Ridge Dry Riesling Estate 2023 (NY) This winery is on west Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes region of New York, where Riesling is king. This dry Riesling is easy to drink and not as bracingly acidic as young Rieslings can be from the area. I like the forward, ripe peachy fruit and the fine balance with fresh acidity.
**+ Loving Cup “Lucky Break” 2022: all wines by Loving Cup winery in North Garden are certified organically grown and produced, and this was the most impressive of the 2022 vintage reds I tasted at this event. Blend is 60% Corot Noir, 37% Marquette (both red U. MN hybrids) and 4% Norton (a Virginia hybrid circa 1825). Named after a shelter dog the owners adopted, this wine is richly fruity, fresh, and original, being a versatile food wine or for sipping slightly chilled.
**+Daring Wine Co. Chardonnay 2022: Have you been searching for a “Goldilocks” Chardonnay that’s not too lean, not too rich, but “just right?” Well, this is it! Fresh, elegant, with a hint of fleshiness but not heavy.
**+Lovingston Vineyards Seyval Blanc 2023: Racy, flinty, with pink grapefruit aromas and flavors, bursting with fresh citrus acidity and a long clean finish.
**+Veritas Vineyards & Winery Rose: “rose petal” is the color, from Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes both gently processed for a light pink color, fresh, vibrant aromas and flavors of bright red fruits, dry with a clean finish.
*** Mount Alto Vineyards 2021, 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot: In the 2021 vintage, they found they had more wine than they anticipated, so instead of making a 50/50 blend, they decided to make two different wines, each a 60/40 blend of the two different grapes. This Cabernet-dominant blend is very impressive (3 stars). The nose has smoky black fruits typical of the vintage, with some herbal perfume from the Petit Verdot. Palate: wow! big, dry, bold, solid ripe fruit and tannins, fruit-forward but balanced and layered. Could drink now, but will be better this winter, also with some more age. $35
*** Hark Merlot 2019: Smooth and elegant, with subtle, ripe black fruits; like drinking velvet.
*** King Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2022: Subtle, fresh, no oak flavors, pure Cabernet Franc flavors, texture and style.
*** Jefferson Vineyards Merlot Reserve 2019: Rich, juicy black fruits, well-integrated with oak.
*** Southwest Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2021: very dark color. Nose: graphite/pencil shavings, which is actually a quality marker for varietal Cabernet Franc. Palate: rich, dark, and smooth, no noticeable oak flavor, a classic Virginia varietal style.
*** Southwest Mountain Vineyards Petit Verdot 2021: (20% Merlot). Nose: subtle black fruits. Palate: a lot like the Cabernet Franc (previous entry) but with more depth; stylish!
*** King Family Vineyards Meritage 2021: (51% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 23% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec). Nose: racy black fruits, elegant. Palate: juicy, plump, richly fruity yet with fine, racy acidity to balance. Stylish.
*** Ankida Ridge Vineyards Pinot Noir 2016
From an estate vineyard in Amherst Co. Virginia, this is a wine for those who admire Burgundy and its elegance and finesse. Color: mature ruby. Nose: Intriguing and original, mostly herbs (basil, thyme) and a hint of spice (white pepper). Fruit emerges as fresh black raspberry and cassis. Palate: dry but mouth-filling, yet fresh and only 13% alc. Mature, with all components in harmony, driven by fruit and acidity. This wine shows why Ankida Ridge was invited to present their Pinot Noir at INPC in 2014. Stylish, elegant and pointing towards Burgundy, and very food-friendly.
***+ Red Tail Ridge “Perpetuelle Change” Solera Method Brut Nature, Cuve’e No. 4
An elegant and very original methode champenoise sparkling wine, the “Perpetuelle Change” name is inspired by evolution, and the “solera blend” refers to the tradition of the major champagne houses releasing their non-vintage blend as a multi-vintage blend of many years, mellowing the acidity and adding complexity. Located on west Seneca Lake, Red Tail Ridge has used two white and two red cool climate grapes in this cuve’e, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Zweigelt, and the photo detail above shows the percentages of grapes and vintages in the blend.
Color: pale with a hint of salmon. Nose: fresh and delicate, with lemon, apple and cherry blossom hints. Palate: remarkably mellow considering the region and grape varieties, yet fresh and well-integrated. Can be enjoyed on its own or with light appetizers.
***+Mount Alto Vineyards 2019 Manteo-Nason-Tatum: This blend, from a very ripe, fruit-forward vintage, is a blend of 55% Petit Verdot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep color. On the nose, much like the ’20, with cassis and lavender. Palate: lovely smooth ripe tannins, then ripe, juicy, hedonistic fruit, with a plush, smooth finish. Excellent now, will improve. $45
**** Hark Spark 2019: The outstanding 2019 vintage was fruit-forward and juicy, and it was hard to find a bad red that year. Imagine how good the wines are that placed in the Governor’s Case are (the top twelve gold medals in the Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition); well, this is one! The blend is 46% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 24% Petit Verdot. Fruity, yet complex, all components skillfully integrated. Showcases this excellent vintage well, also the separate varietals’ component flavors. Drinks like a Chopin waltz.
**** Linden Hardscrabble 2015
An estate blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, this is the flagship red wine of this iconic Virginia farm winery. Color is still deep ruby. Nose: ripe black fruits and anise, fresh and lively. Palate: continues fresh and lively, like fine Bordeaux. Elegant and poised, this blend brings a finely integrated balance with fruit and acidity visible and oak invisible. Behind just-ripe red and black fruits is a gentle minerality and fresh acidity, again pointing to Bordeaux. Still evolving, has from 3-5 more years at peak.
(Rating key: * = good, ** = very good, *** = classic style and quality, **** = exceptional, outstanding, + = given rating plus, > = will increase in quality with time. Note: I won’t give wine recommendations when I consult for a winery.)