I keep a library of bottle-aged Finger Lakes Riesling. I’ve found (due to a geeky phenomenon of bound vs. free terpenes), that Rieslings are best in the first two years, or, if from a classic cool climate region, at 15 years or older, if well-cellared and if the corks aren’t plastic.
This Riesling is not only a showcase of the Finger Lakes, but of Keuka Lake in particular, being sourced from five estate vineyards on east and west sides of the lake. The 2010 vintage was the best of that decade in the Finger Lakes, and Riesling can show well there in warm as well as cooler vintages (alc. here was 12.8%)
From the aromatics through the finish, this is a rare and brilliant showcase of Riesling and terroir, as well as the benefits of patiently aging cork-finished estate Rieslings for 15 years. Color: vivid medium gold. Nose: a rush of ripe apple, hardwood smoke, flint and petrol, the apple alternating in wavelengths between Granny Smith green and Pink Lady red. On the palate, the ripe apple flavors explode, with vivid matching acidity; the residual sugar has helped preserve the rich texture and ripeness, but doesn’t really taste sweet now; all elements are wonderfully integrated. The finish is bright with firm acidity carrying the vividly ripe red apple flavor to a long taper.
When I taste this wine, I hear music, specifically the Four Last Songs of Richard Strauss; Spring, September, Going to Sleep, and In Twilight’s Glow, sung by the great New Zealand soprano Kiri Te Kanawa The songs complement each other well, as do the elements of this amazing Finger Lakes Riesling.
Rating: ***** Brilliant and rare!
(Rating key: * = good, ** = very good, *** = classic style and quality, **** = exceptional, outstanding, + = given rating plus, > = will increase in quality with time. Note: I won’t give wine recommendations when I consult for a winery.)