Since I got a Coravin, a wonderful tool that extracts wine from a bottle through the cork and displaces the wine with inert argon gas, I’ve enjoyed sampling wines without having to either open or empty the bottle—I can “have my wine and drink it, too.”
Recently during a cool spell, I decided to sample these two wines both for pleasure and to see how much longer they would hold.
They were equally excellent, but in such different ways. It reminded me of having heard that French traditionalists consider Bordeaux reds the “queen” of French red wines, but Burgundies are considered the “king.” I’ve also heard that claret (the English term for all red Bordeaux) is considered an intellectual kind of wine, while red Burgundies have the Dionysian reputation. Hillaire Belloc, an English writer, poet and connoisseur, once remarked “I cannot remember the name of the village. I cannot even remember the name of the girl, but the wine, by God, was Chambertin.”
You get the idea. Tasting these two excellent wines, among the best of their kinds grown and made in the U.S., reminded me of those things I had heard comparing red Bordeaux blends to Pinot Noir.
Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir Reserve 2017
This wine was graciously gifted to me by co-owner and vineyard manager Christine Vrooman at their annual Fete de Noel in 2019. This was the first reserve wine Ankida had produced since its 2010 debut vintage, made from just two select barrels, and it wasn’t even labeled at the time.
East Coast Pinot Noir, I’ve found, as a rule doesn’t hold up over time in the cellar (Pinot has a low tannin load compared to the red Bordeaux varieties), but I had faith in this wine. The Coravin enabled me to see if it was ready yet, or needed more time.
Yes, and yes. This remarkable Virginia Pinot Noir can be enjoyed now; it’s near it’s peak, but I would like to wait another two years before finishing the bottle, as I think it will get even better.
Color: medium-dark garnet. Nose: notes of dried forest floor, dried red and black cherry, cardamom and exotic baking spices, a more concentrated version of the very fine regular 2017 Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir. The reserve is still a young, intense wine that’s evolving.
Palate: vivid and intense with a current of electricity. Ripe cherry, spice and earth/mineral notes all intertwined. Alcohol is higher than usual (14.5%), but without sappy new oak, and with firm acidity and ripe tannin, the wine carries the alcohol, and all elements are masterfully balanced. For fans of terroir-driven Pinot Noir, this is the real deal; fantastic length, integration and complexity. Probably best in 2027. ****˃*
Barboursville Vineyards Octagon 2015
The 2015 vintage in the Monticello AVA was hampered by Hurricane Joachin, and I’ve not expected much from that vintage. Octagon is made in the “reductive”, traditional Old World way which requires some time in the bottle before the wine’s true character can emerge, so I wanted to try this out with the Coravin.since it’s over a decade old.
This vintage of Octagon is 50% Merlot, 30% Petit Verdot and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged for 12 months in 40% new French oak. The wine is still closed, and needs decanting if you want to enjoy it in the near future.
The nose remained closed after pouring, then notes of roasted coffee, ripe black fruits, baking spices and garden herbs emerged. Palate: despite 40% new French oak, the palate, like the nose, was also slow to develop for a 10-year old Octagon. The main impression is of finesse and integration of all components; ripe black fruits, ripe yet smooth tannins, rich and supple on the palate with a fresh, long, clean finish. Thomas Jefferson would have been proud of this wine! I’d like to see this wine tasted in a flight of St. Emilion Grand Cru Classe wines. Needs another 3-5 years in a cool, dark cellar to reach its peak, but is elegant and enjoyable now if decanted.
****˃*
Rating key: * = good, ** = very good, *** = classic style and quality, **** = exceptional, outstanding, + = given rating plus, > = will increase in quality with time. Note: I won’t give wine recommendations when I consult for a winery.