Wine Writer Frank Morgan Reports on How Virginia Wines “Showed up–and Showed Off in Paris
Wine blogger Frank Morgan (“Drink What YOU Like”) just returned from having co-organized a landmark tasting of Virginia wines in a blind tasting against comparable French counterparts, at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. He writes, “What began as an idea inspired by the 50th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris and recognition of five decades of the modern Virginia wine industry became a wonderful experience that showcased the quality of Virginian wine.”
“The results were pretty damn awesome!“
“At Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Thomas McCune (a retired doctor who now studies at Le Cordon Blue) and I organized ‘Old World, New Roots’—a blind tasting celebrating the remarkable evolution of Virginia wine alongside outstanding wines from France. Guided by an accomplished international jury chaired by Xavier Thuizat, Best Sommelier of France and Meilleur Ouvrier de France, the tasting included four flights — Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, Cab Franc, and red blends. Each flight included three wines from Virginia and three from France.”
“Virginia claimed the top two Chardonnay scores, swept the Petit Manseng flight, earned the highest-scoring Cabernet Franc, and captured the top three Bordeaux-style blends.”
“But the real story wasn’t about “beating” France or any other region. It was about demonstrating that, after fifty years of modern winemaking, Virginia has earned its place in the global conversation. “
To see Virginia wines evaluated blind, alongside French counterparts, by an experienced panel of judges in the heart of Paris was meaningful and inspiring. It was awesome to hear one of the judges from Paris (who just submitted his MW thesis paper) say, “Wow, these Virginia wines are so good!”
The original “Judgement of Paris” tasting at the Bicentennial was produced by the late British wine writer Steven Spurrier, at his Paris wine shop. George Taber of Time magazine attended, and made sure that the results got out on the news wires that day, when California Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines bested their French counterparts.
This put California wine on the world wine map overnight. The story was even made into a movie, Bottle Shock.
In 2007, I was the Executive Director of “The Virginia Wine Experience in London,” which brought 64 curated Virginia wines to a trade and media-only tasting. In attendance were Steven Spurrier, Hugh Johnson and Andrew Jefford, among others.
Five years later, Spurrier attended a Virginia wine trade and media event in Richmond, where he declared, “Today, my favorite North American wine region is Virginia, because it makes the kinds of wines I want to have a second glass of.”
Today, 13 years after his comments, 19 years after the Virginia Wine Experience in London and 50 years after the original “Judgment of Paris” tasting, where California wines proved their worth on the world wine stage, it’s finally Virginia’s turn to take a well-deserved bow, in the same week as the sesquicentennial of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, authored by Virginian and wine enthusiast Thomas Jefferson.
In 1781, Jefferson wrote to John Dortie, saying “we have every soil, aspect and climate of the best wine countries, and I have myself drank wines made in this state and in Maryland, of the quality of the best Burgundy.” Today, this landmark tasting in Paris demonstrates that Jefferson’s enthusiasm was not just boosterism, but was prophetic: Virginia wines have earned their place among the world’s best, even those of France.
Frank continues: “A heartfelt thank you to our distinguished judges, the Le Cordon Bleu Paris team, and to every Virginia and French winery whose wines made this tasting possible. Big thanks to Matthieu Finot and Karine Milfarge, who made the shipping possible! Thank you, VWA, too!
And… to Acada Morgan for holding down the fort and 24 hour caregiving for Kinley this week.”
This wasn’t the next Judgment of Paris — it’s the beginning of a new conversation.
“Following are the top scoring wines in each flight (NOTE: I picked all of the Virginia wines for the tasting; Tom selected all of the French wines from small independent producers). Le Cordon Bleu will be sending a press release with scores for all wines:
CHARDONNAY:
1. – Chardonnay 2023 Michael Shaps Wild Meadow Vineyard AVA Monticello Chardonnay
2. – 2023 Pollak Vineyards AVA Monticello Chardonnay
3. – Les Chazots 2023 Maison Schaps AOP Bourgogne
PETIT MANSENG:
1. – Petit Manseng 2023 Michael Schaps Honah Lee Vineyard
2. – 2023 Veritas AVA Monticello Petit Manseng
3. – 2024 Paradise Springs Vineyard AVA Middleburg
CABERNET FRANC:
1. – Valley Road Vineyard Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve 2023
2. – PIOU 2023 Daugay AOP St Emilion Ceci n’est pas que Equilibre
3. – 2022 Château de Minière AOP Bourgueil
BORDEAUX-STYLE RED BLENDS:
1. – 2019 King Family Vineyards Meritage
2. – 2021 Pollak Vineyards Meritage
3. – Octagon 2021 Barboursville Vineyard
Read Frank’s original post on his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/frank.j.morgan